Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 30
  1. #11
    Club Founder bigrubbers4x4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    OGLETOWN PA
    Posts
    6,110
    Quote Originally Posted by PAMudBusters View Post
    yada yada radius arms Ford and a better idea yada yada. Basically the same thing.
    not even close to the same there bud....
    Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body,
    But rather to skid in sideways Totally worn out, shouting "HOLY SHIT.......WHAT A RIDE!!!"

  2. #12
    Explain yourself. Whats their primary function?
    :th_biggun:`

  3. #13
    So I did a quick search. Aside from appearance and better idea frame/cross-member mounting. I don't see the major difference you speak of.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radius_rod

    Oh yeah,..............bud!! lol
    :th_biggun:`

  4. #14
    Club Founder bigrubbers4x4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    OGLETOWN PA
    Posts
    6,110
    OK Einstein, I will explain the difference to you but, it will have to wait till later when I am in front of my PC and not on my phone. Maybe someone else can enlighten you until then cause i am gonna keep a newb in suspense......
    Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body,
    But rather to skid in sideways Totally worn out, shouting "HOLY SHIT.......WHAT A RIDE!!!"

  5. #15
    LMAO OK,

    Technically by name more then function I guess one could call you rite. But bottom line is the functions are the basically the same.

    So Yugo isn't a car, but a Caddy is......But it is a compact and not a sedan?
    :th_biggun:`

  6. #16
    Senior Member UPJ Wheeler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Johnstown
    Posts
    1,392
    Quote Originally Posted by PAMudBusters View Post
    Looks to me like you got bad angles on your links (for flexing anyways). For it not to wanna drop out of there it would have to be binding.

    So I would do what you said you were going to do in your first post. Put the air shocks on it with a good 4 link. Make sure you pay mind to your drive shaft.
    DONT DO THAT! If the links were the binding point, then they wouldn't flex more when you took the shock and spring off. Dont make more work for yourself! Get shocks that have the right travel, and softer springs and give it a go. If it's a woods only unit, I would look into air shocks. If you still drive it on the street stick with the coils.



    Quote Originally Posted by PAMudBusters View Post
    yada yada radius arms Ford and a better idea yada yada. Basically the same thing.
    TOTALLY FALSE!!! We have this thing that we learn in the 9th grade called GEOMETRY!!!! yes they perform the same function, but that have TOTALLY different characteristics. Calvin the Destroyer needs to do some MAJOR research before EVER attempting to build any kind of link set up.
    DINK DINK!!!

    '79 CJ7, rebuilt 258, 4.0 Head, HEI, AX-15, D300 Low max 4:1, Flat Belly, Narrowed D44 w/ true trac & diff gaurd, Widetrack AMC20 w/ superior shafts, Homemade 4 wheel disk, I take it in the butt, Detroit locker & crane diff cover, 4" skyjacker lift, 2" BL, TJ flares, 35" tires, YJ booster, York OBA, YJ tub conversion, picklesmoocher, 6 pt. cage, F250 front shock towers, pure goat sex appeal :)daulmg
    TBI on the way O:g:)headbanger

  7. #17
    Rock on you rule and are my hero! College boy you just said what I said with more words. We are talking primary function not geometry. It's a good thing the damn thing wasn't pink and flipped upside down you'd be really confused huh.
    :th_biggun:`

  8. #18
    So to be considered a link the geometry needs to be the same every time? Which links are true links then on a four link setup? Because the geometry on the 2 lower links is different from the 2 uppers and according to you that can't be.
    :th_biggun:`

  9. #19
    Senior Member UPJ Wheeler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Johnstown
    Posts
    1,392
    No we did not say the same thing calvin....

    They serve the same PURPOSE... they do not function the same
    DINK DINK!!!

    '79 CJ7, rebuilt 258, 4.0 Head, HEI, AX-15, D300 Low max 4:1, Flat Belly, Narrowed D44 w/ true trac & diff gaurd, Widetrack AMC20 w/ superior shafts, Homemade 4 wheel disk, I take it in the butt, Detroit locker & crane diff cover, 4" skyjacker lift, 2" BL, TJ flares, 35" tires, YJ booster, York OBA, YJ tub conversion, picklesmoocher, 6 pt. cage, F250 front shock towers, pure goat sex appeal :)daulmg
    TBI on the way O:g:)headbanger

  10. #20
    Club Member psychobilly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    in your moms room
    Posts
    432
    A radius arm suspension can work.



    I did it by moving the mounting wedges in towards the center of the axle a few inches (note the one to the right to the pumpkin compared to yours) and lengthened the arms a few inches. Also mounted the shocks inside the coils. Seeing how you have a 79 axle and bronco chassis you dont really have the option of relocating your c-wedges (cast in the axle that year) so your only real option is to make a limp wristed radius arm. I dont like that option but its your best bet. Make it so it can be pinned for street driving and beef the snot out of the other arm. And take jays advice and go to james duff, look at their lift coils for the early broncos.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •